The Mediterranean isn't a sea poor in cetaceans, it's a sea badly told. In reality it hosts 21 of the 90 cetacean species in the world, and Italy, with its central position in the Mediterranean and the Pelagos Cetacean Sanctuary in the Ligurian Sea, is one of the best places in Europe for spotting dolphins and whales. The problem is knowing where to go, when to go and who to go with, not all the operators are the same.
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The Pelagos Cetacean Sanctuary: what it is and why it exists
The Pelagos International Cetacean Sanctuary is an international marine protected area of 87,500 km² in the Ligurian Sea, between the coasts of Italy, France and the Principality of Monaco. Established in 1999 with the Rome Agreement, the first international treaty for the protection of cetaceans in international waters, it's managed jointly by the three countries.
Why is the Ligurian so rich in cetaceans? Because of upwelling: the deep waters of the Ligurian Sea rise to the surface dragging up nutrients, feeding phytoplankton, zooplankton and small pelagic fish (sardines, anchovies, hake), the food base of dolphins and whales. The Genoa Trench reaches 2,850 m of depth, creating habitat for sperm whales and beaked whales in waters accessible from the coast.
The cetacean species that live in the Italian sea
Common dolphin (Delphinus delphis)
The fastest and most athletic of the Mediterranean dolphins, capable of swimming at 60 km/h. It moves in pods of 50-200 individuals in the Ligurian and the Adriatic. Less common than the bottlenose in coastal waters, but the most abundant in the Pelagos. Recognizable by the bicolor hourglass pattern on the flanks: yellow-cream in front, light gray behind.
Bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus)
The aquarium dolphin, the best known, the most studied. In the Italian Mediterranean it lives in small resident groups (10-30 individuals) along the coasts. Stable colonies are documented in Liguria (the Golfo di Tigullio), Tuscany (the Tuscan Archipelago), Sardinia (Asinara, the Golfo di Orosei) and Sicily (Ustica). The resident bottlenoses have names, a family history known to the researchers who've studied them for decades.
Striped dolphin (Stenella coeruleoalba)
The most common in the Mediterranean overall, the striped dolphin. A slender snout, characteristic gray-blue lateral stripes. It lives in large pods (100-1,000 individuals) in the open sea. In the Pelagos a population of 50,000-70,000 individuals is estimated, astonishing numbers for a sea so traveled by ferries and cargo ships.
Fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus)
The second largest whale in the world (up to 24 m, 70 tons) regularly frequents the Pelagos Sanctuary from May to October. It feeds on euphausiids (krill) and small fish, filtering thousands of liters of water. It's recognized by the asymmetry of the color on the snout (white on the right, gray on the left, the only known case of color asymmetry in large mammals) and by the high, vertical blow up to 7 m, visible from kilometers away.
Sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus)
The largest toothed predator on Earth (up to 18 m, 57 tons in the adult male). In the Ligurian it's present year-round, especially in the deep waters of the Genoa Canyon where it dives down to 2,000 m hunting giant squid. Recognizable by the oblique blow toward the left and by the cubic head, a third of the total length of the body. You often see it at the surface in the sun after long dives.
Risso's dolphin (Grampus griseus)
A silvery gray dolphin with white scars all over its body, left by the beaks of the squid it feeds on. A round head, almost without a snout. Common in the Ligurian and around Sardinia. Risso's dolphins are often confused with bottlenoses, but the larger size (3-4 m) and the light color are diagnostic.
Where to do whale watching in Italy: ports and operators
| Port | Distance from the Pelagos | Typical species | Average price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Genoa | Immediate | Whale, sperm whale, striped dolphin | €50-70 |
| Imperia/Diano Marina | 20-40 km | Fin whale, bottlenose | €45-60 |
| La Spezia/Lerici | 60-80 km | Sperm whale, Risso's dolphin | €50-65 |
| Sanremo | 30-50 km | Whale, striped dolphin | €40-55 |
| Alghero (SA) | Open sea | Bottlenose, Risso's dolphin, common dolphin | €35-50 |
Questions and answers about cetaceans in Italy
In which period can you see dolphins and whales in Italy?
Dolphins (bottlenose, common dolphin, striped dolphin) are present year-round in the Italian waters. The fin whales frequent the Pelagos mainly from May to October, with a peak in July-September. The sperm whales are present year-round in the deep Ligurian. September-October is the best period to see both whales and sperm whales, the sea is still warm, with fewer tourists on the boats.
Can you swim with dolphins in Italy?
It's forbidden to intentionally approach dolphins to swim with them in the Italian waters. Law 150/1992 and DPR 357/1997 prohibit the disturbance of cetaceans. Some agencies offer "snorkeling with dolphins," in most cases this means wild bottlenoses that approach the boat spontaneously, not conditioned dolphins. Never pay for "swimming with dolphins" in an organized way, you're probably being sold something illegal or ethically questionable.
Are the dolphins in Sardinia different from the Ligurian ones?
They aren't different species, but they're different populations. The Sardinian bottlenoses, in particular those of the Golfo di Orosei, of Oristano and of Asinara, have been studied for decades by Italian and international researchers. Some are semi-resident populations with individuals identified singly by the morphology of the dorsal fin. The researcher Tiziana Farinelli and the CETUS team have built photographic databases of hundreds of identified individuals, true field science, not wildlife tourism.
How big is a fin whale compared to a ferry?
An adult fin whale is 20-24 m long, shorter than an average ferry but much wider in proportion. The weight reaches 70 tons. Collision with ships is one of the main mortality factors in the Mediterranean: in the Ligurian, 2-4 fin whales injured or killed by hull impact are found every year. The speed of the large ships (20+ knots) leaves the whale no time to avoid them.
Scientific research on Italian cetaceans: how to contribute
CETUS (the Center for Cetacean Research and Conservation) coordinates the monitoring of cetaceans in Sardinia and runs a citizen science program. Those who spot cetaceans can report position, species and behavior through the MedCet app, the reports feed scientific databases used by universities and ISPRA for national conservation plans.
The Tethys Institute of Milan is one of the most recognized Mediterranean cetacean research centers in the world. It organizes scientific expeditions in the Pelagos during the summer in which volunteer-researchers can participate (the Dolphin Biology and Conservation Research program, 7 days, €900 contribution). It isn't tourism, it's real research, with photo-identification work, skin biopsies and data collection.
Stranded cetaceans: what to do
In the case of a live stranded cetacean in Italy, the number to call is that of the local Coast Guard (1530 from a landline, 118 for an emergency) or directly the Coordination for Marine Emergencies of the Ministry of the Environment. Never move a stranded cetacean without the instructions of the experts, a wrong operation can worsen the internal injuries caused by the weight of the body out of the water.
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Dolphins and whales in Italy: where to book reliable tours
How much does a whale watching tour cost in Italy?
The prices vary from €35 to €70 per adult, depending on the duration (3-6 hours) and the operator. The longer outings (5-6 hours in the Pelagos) increase the chances of a sighting. Always check: the boat has binoculars on board, there's a naturalist/biologist on board (not just the captain), the operator has the whale watching code of conduct. Children under 6 are often free or half price. Seasickness is a real factor on the longer outings, Dramamine/Xamamina 30 minutes before boarding.
When is it best to do whale watching in Liguria?
The optimal period for whale watching in Liguria is June-October, with the peak in July-September when the fin whales are most many in the Pelagos to feed. September-October offers generally excellent weather conditions and less crowding on the boats. The May-June outings are more variable, the whales begin to arrive but the presence isn't guaranteed. In winter (November-April) the whales are less present but the sperm whales remain year-round in the deep waters.
The Pelagos Sanctuary: real protection or only on paper?
The Pelagos Sanctuary prohibits or regulates: hunting of cetaceans, intentional disturbance, underwater detonations, the laying of (pelagic) drift nets. It doesn't manage to prevent: the intense maritime traffic (over 200 ships/day transit the Ligurian), the underwater acoustic pollution (military sonar, naval traffic), the accidental fishing (bycatch) in the fishing boats' nets, the chemical pollution from plastics and hydrocarbons. The Sanctuary is an international agreement without an autonomous control body, compliance depends on the will of the three countries. France and Monaco are more rigorous in enforcement than Italy.
Cetaceans in the Italian Mediterranean: what changes year after year
The cetacean monitoring data in the Italian Mediterranean show worrying trends. The striped dolphin lost about 30% of its population in the Ligurian Sea between 1991 and 2009 (IUCN/ACCOBAMS data). The causes: bycatch (accidental capture in the nets), pollution from PCBs and heavy metals that cause immunosuppression, disturbance from naval traffic. Since 2009 the situation has slightly improved thanks to the reduction of organochlorine pollution after the European ban.
The bottlenose, by contrast, is increasing in the protected coastal areas. The Asinara colony grew from 40 to over 70 individuals between 2005 and 2022. The Italian marine protected areas, Asinara, Portofino, Capo Carbonara, Torre Guaceto, are becoming refuges for resident bottlenose populations.
What's the difference between a dolphin and a bottlenose?
In common Italian terminology, "delfino" (dolphin) is often used to indicate the bottlenose (Tursiops truncatus), the one of the dolphinariums and the films. But "dolphin" is a generic term that indicates about 40 species of the Delphinidae family. In Italy, besides the bottlenose, the striped dolphin, the common dolphin, Risso's dolphin, the long-finned pilot whale and others are also dolphins (in the scientific sense). When someone tells you "I saw the dolphins" you don't know which species they saw until they specify.
Dolphins and whales in the Mediterranean: what changes between Liguria and Sardinia
The main difference between whale watching in Liguria and cetacean spotting in Sardinia isn't the quality of the experience, it's the type of experience. In Liguria, the outings in the Pelagos are in the open sea, often with significant swell, and you look for deep-water species (whales, sperm whales) that require suitable vessels and time. In Sardinia, the bottlenoses live in accessible coastal areas with a kayak or small boats, a completely different experience, more intimate and less dependent on the sea conditions.
Those who suffer from seasickness should choose Sardinia or the protected waters of the Cinque Terre. Those who want to see whales and sperm whales must accept a minimum of swell in the Ligurian. October is the best month overall for the quality of the experience: a sea generally calmer than August, fewer boats, whales still present.
Are there orcas (killer whales) in the Italian sea?
Orcas (Orcinus orca) are present in the western Mediterranean but very rarely in Italian waters. The only resident population of orcas in the Mediterranean lives in the Strait of Gibraltar, about 40-50 individuals that feed on bluefin tuna. Sightings of orcas in the Ligurian, Tyrrhenian or Adriatic Sea are accidental and documented fewer than a dozen times in the last half century. If someone sells you an "orca watching tour" in Italy, be wary.
Do dolphins eat the fishermen's fish?
Yes, and it's a source of real conflict especially in the coastal waters of Sardinia and Sicily. The bottlenoses have learned to wait for the fishing boats and to feed on the fish on the nets, a behavior documented throughout the Mediterranean. The fishermen of southern Sardinia report losses of 30-40% of the catch to bottlenose predation in certain seasons. Some research (the University of Cagliari) is testing non-invasive acoustic deterrent signals to reduce the conflict without harming the cetaceans.
